Segovia - the city

Segovia is the capital of the province of the same name in the autonomous community of Castilla y León. It is one of those delightful Spanish cities that have been awarded World Heritage status by UNESCO. The city is best known for its Aqueduct but its castle is quite splendid and the old town has many treasures including the Cathedral and a number of churches built in the Romanesque style. 

Segovia

There is also the Alcazar. If you visit this enchanting fortress, you might well think it looks familiar - particularly if you have visited a famous American holiday destination - the Alcazar in Segovia was allegedly the inspiration for Walt Disney's Sleeping Beauty Castle! The castle has another link with America - it was here that Queen Isabella gave Columbus financial backing for his trip to discover the New World. The castle sits high on a ledge overlooking the city. The Moors had originally built it in the 12th century and it became a favourite residence of the kings of Castile. The Catholic Isabella was proclaimed Queen of Castile here in 1474. Over the centuries, the castle was enlarged and embellished - the 'Disney-like' conical spires were added during the reign of King Philip II in the 16th century. Today, it is a museum and, if you get bored of looking at medieval weapons and armour, you could climb to the top of a tower. The 152 steps are worth climbing for the views!

Alcazar Segovia

Romantics may prefer the castle but the Aquaduct is probably the most famous monument in Segovia. Known locally as El Puente, it stands at the entrance to the historic section of the city and is a masterpiece of Roman engineering. It was built at the end of the 1st century AD and, nearly 2000 years later, it is still well preserved despite the fact that no mortar was used - the granite blocks are held together by nothing other than their own weight! The aquaduct is colossal - 20,400 granite blocks were used to build the main part of the structure, which has 166 arches. 

Aqueduct Segovia

The aqueduct may be the symbol of Segovia but the Cathedral is probably the most important building in the city. It was begun in 1525, during the reign of Carlos V and is widely considered to be Europe's last great Gothic cathedral. 

Cathedral Segovia

There are a number of important religious buildings in the city and many are Romanesque - in fact, Segovia has one of the largest concentrations of Romanesque churches in all of Europe, most dating back to the 11th century. The more notable ones are those of San Lorenzo, San Martín, San Millán, La Trinidad and San Esteban. All of the aforementioned churches and many more besides are within the old city walls. One church situated outside of the old town that is worthy of mention is the Church of Vera Cruz. Founded by the Knights Templar it is unusual in that it is dodecahedral - the building has twelve faces making it appear almost circular!

some churches in Segovia

There are many other fine monuments in Segovia including important medieval and Renaissance buildings, such as the 15th-century Corn exchange and the 14th-century Tower of los Lozoya. There are magisterial houses and beautiful palaces befitting a royal city.

NB. all of the above images have been declared public domain - special thanks to Zarateman who donated a number of the images including the churches.

more blogs by Robert Bovington...

"Photographs of Spain"	http://bovingtonphotosofspain.blogspot.com/
"postcards from Spain"	http://bovington-posts.blogspot.com/
"you couldn't make it up!"	http://bovingtonycmitup.blogspot.com/
"a grumpy old man in Spain"	http://grumpybobbov.blogspot.com/
"bits and bobs"	http://bovingtonbitsandblogs.blogspot.com/
"Spanish Expressions"	http://spanishsayingsbovington.blogspot.com/
"Spanish Art"	http://bovingtonspanishart.blogspot.com/
"Books About Spain"	http://bovingtonbooks.blogspot.com/

CÓRDOBA

by Robert Bovington

Córdoba was once the most important and richest city in the western world. It’s pretty good now as I recently discovered when I visited this beautiful city. It is one of the great cities of Spain. Along with Granada and Sevilla it is one of the classical cities of Andalucía that are famous for their spectacular architecture.

Córdoba was once the centre of the medieval Caliphate of Córdoba and capital of the western Islamic Empire. It reached its peak in the 10th century when it rivalled Baghdad and Constantinople as one of the great cities of the World. Its greatest surviving monument to the city's magnificent past is its Grand Mosque - the Mezquita.

Córdoba - Calle Torrijos

Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba

Work on the mosque actually started in 786 when it was built on the site of an old Visigothic church. However, it was enlarged three times before reaching its present size in 987 when it became the largest sacred building in the Islamic world.
 

Córdoba Mezquita © Robert Bovington

And big it most certainly is - so massive that a Gothic cathedral was built inside the mosque - and a number of chapels!

Mezquita - one of the
Cathedral ceilings

Following the Christian Reconquest of Córdoba in 1236, the mosque was consecrated as a Christian cathedral. During the 14th century, the Villaviciosa Chapel and the Capilla Real were built and then in 1523, work on the cathedral started with the building of a huge nave inside the mosque.

The interior of the mosque is spectacular - a forest of pillars and arches. 856 of the granite, jasper and marble columns remain - some were removed to make way for the Christian parts of the building. Horseshoe-shaped arches consisting of alternating red brick and white stone were placed above the lower pillars, which has given the Mezquita its distinctive character.

Of course, there is much more to this magnificent building than pillars and arches! The Mihrab is particularly magnificent with its intricately carved marble ceiling and exquisitely decorated chambers with their Byzantine mosaics. All this ornamentation is in great contrast to the worn flagstones - an indication that many Muslims prayed here.

The Villaviciosa and Capilla Real chapels are both quite splendid and are good examples of Mudéjar architecture.
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There used to be many entrances into the mosque but nowadays, the only one open to the public is the Puerta del Perdón.

Córdoba - Mezquita -
Patio de los Naranjos

No self-respecting mosque should be without a patio where prospective worshippers can perform their ritual ablutions. The Patio de los Naranjos was used for this purpose. Visitors still pass through this delightful courtyard with its orange trees and fountains on their way into the Mezquita.
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Torre del Alminar

The minaret of the mosque is no longer visible. It is enveloped in a Baroque bell tower - the Torre del Alminar.

Finally, there is the Cathedral. Charles V later regretted the decision to build it within the Mezquita and many people since have agreed that its construction has devalued the mosque's simple beauty. I disagree. In my humble opinion, the Christian elements blend harmoniously with the architecture of the mosque. 

Certainly,

Mezquita Cathedral Choir

the Cathedral has many impressive features, particularly the choir with its Baroque mahogany choir stalls that were carved by Pedro Duque Correjo in the 18th century.



Anything this special ought to be afforded special protection and it is - UNESCO has declared the Mezquita a World Heritage site.

The sheer grandeur of the Mezquita reflected Córdoba's importance during the 8th to 11th centuries, when it was one of the world's largest and most cultured cities as well as being the capital of the Caliphate of Córdoba - an empire that incorporated a large chunk of the Iberian Peninsula as well as North Africa.
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La Judería

Today, Córdoba is a beautiful city and the old quarter contains many impressive monuments to its historic splendour. Close to the Mezquita, the Judería or Jewish Quarter consists of narrow alleyways, brilliantly whitewashed and splendidly decorated with flowerpots. Other important buildings include the Episcopal Palace, various churches and museums - the Museo de Bellas Artes is the main art museum in the city.
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The Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos

The Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos is a fortified palace that was built by Alfonso XI in 1328. It was the headquarters of the Spanish Inquisition but today, it is a tranquil oasis with gardens and fountains.

Córdoba - Alcázar Gardens

Modern Córdoba

So, Córdoba has a wealth of historical buildings – all beautifully preserved but it is also a city where past and modernity blend. Plaza de las Tendillas, in particular, is a pleasant modern square adjacent to a shopping and commercial area that seamlessly merges into the old narrow streets of the Juderia. It is also only a few minutes walk to the Paseo de la Victoria that, in turn, is a pleasant promenade of greenery leading towards the old city walls.

Paseo de la Victoria

Córdoba - Plaza Tendillas

Robert Bovington