Laujar de Andarax is a town in the
Alpujarras with a special charm and a turbulent history. It nestles in the
foothills of the Sierra Nevada . Opposite are
the mountains of the Sierra de Gádor whilst a fertile valley separates the two
mountain ranges. It is a delightful setting.
Laujar de Andarax |
Laujar is located near the source of the Andarax River that provides water for the
numerous fountains in the town. There are a number of fine buildings too and
none more so than its principal church - Iglesia Parroquial de la Encarnación.
Dating from the 17th century, this Mudéjar building with a Baroque finish is
quite attractive. The church is known as the 'Cathedral of Alpujarra'.
It was built on the foundations of a
mosque. I do not know if it was the original mosque that was set on fire in
1500 with the population inside - they were hiding there during the first
Moorish revolt. What I do know is that the entire Moorish population was
obliged to convert to Christianity or leave the kingdom. Those Moors who
converted were known as moriscos. Later, 1568-71, there was a second Alpujarras
rebellion. The leader of this revolt was Abén Humeya, King of the Moriscos.
However, his nephew Aben Aboo assassinated him and proclaimed himself as his
uncle's successor. He established the capital of his kingdom in Laujar.
Following many bloody battles, the moriscos were finally expelled from the
Alpujarras. This town, like many others, was left deserted for many years until
people from outside the Kingdom
of Granada repopulated
it.
Today, Laujar de Andarax is a thriving town
and it is still a capital - it is the capital of the Alpujarra of Almería. It
is well known for it's wine and there are a number of bodegas locally that
welcome visitors. It is one of the most accessible places in the Alpujarras
being only a 40-minute drive from the coastal town of Almerimar .
Nacimiento nr Laujar |
I frequently visit the Alpujarras and often
go to Laujar to purchase some of its local produce - particularly honey and the
delicious soplillos, which are chewy meringues made with almonds. However,
there is another reason I visit the town. About 1 kilometre north of Laujar is
'El Nacimiento' - a delightful area of waterfalls, picnic areas and places to
walk. My wife and I usually go there in Spring and Autumn on weekdays and,
mostly, we have the place to ourselves. It is a haven of peace and
tranquillity. Nacimiento means 'birth' and it is here that the Río Andarax
starts its journey to the sea near Almería.
extract from “Spanish
Impressions” by Robert Bovington
ISBN 978-1-4452-2543-2 available
from www.lulu.com
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